Morton

Michael Scott Morton has been designing and building furniture for over ten years. Located in Harvard, MA, he builds custom furniture one piece at a time.

Nov 132012
 

The template can take awhile to perfect, but then making the actual mortise is a very fast and foolproof operation. I use the template to first pencil in the area to be mortised. A handheld drill (use a corded one for this operation!) and a forstner bit removes most of the waste.

Excavate most of the material using a fortsner bit a drill

Excavate most of the material using a fortsner bit and a drill

The template has an “end” to it that registers against the top of the workpiece, so I can clamp it in place easily. The router runs right along it no problem.

The router runs along the template

The router runs along the template

The result is a nice clean mortise. I love that it has a flat bottom from the router bit also.

After routing using the template, a nice clean mortise

After routing using the template, a nice clean mortise

Nov 072012
 

Now that the tenons are done, time for matching mortises.  Now, I could just scribe and chop them out by hand, there are only two.  However, I want them to be pretty tight and being risk-adverse at this stage in the project (I can’t get two more crotch walnut legs if I really screw up!) – I went with a template.

My mortise template - two attempts at the correct size and location

My mortise template - two attempts at the correct size and location

The other reason for making this template was to make test mortises and check the squareness of my stretcher + tenons.

Testing the stretcher in the mortise and square to the "floor"

Testing the stretcher in the mortise and square to the "floor"

It turns out that my stretcher is still slightly twisted (or the tenons are) and so check out the first picture again and note a piece of veneer taped to the template.  This rotates the mortise very slightly from 90 and running a second test (note two sets of mortises in the second picture) confirmed that the test legs sat firmly on the ground (my dead-flat assembly table).

Finally – I ran a layer of blue tape on the inside of the template to make it just that tiny bit tighter for the tenon to fit.  Time to do the real thing.

Blue tape on the inside edge snugs up the mortise that tiny amount.

Blue tape on the inside edge snugs up the mortise that tiny amount.

Nov 062012
 

There’s been some buzz around the internet of a video showing the effect of moving a hand-plane’s chipbreaker all the way to the front (within thousands of an inch of the iron’s tip).  Even Chris Schwarz had a post on it.  Pretty interesting stuff, and I decided to try it out myself.

I won’t go into details that you can read in the above posts – because my results were very similar.  I tried three different settings which resulted in three different shavings, although the wood surface left behind was pretty similar in all cases.

Three shavings from different hand plane setups.

Three shavings from different hand plane setups.

I first set my standard chipbreaker to within a couple thousands of the front of the iron.  This made the plane hard to push and left behind very crinkled shavings.  However, the surface left behind looked nice.

Crinkled shavings from a chipbreaker set extremely close

Crinkled shavings from a chipbreaker set extremely close

I then honed a 50 degree microbevel on my chipbreaker.  This made the plane a little easier to push and the shavings had minimal crinkle.

Slight crinkle to these shavings from a high-angle chipbreaker set very close

Slight crinkle to these shavings from a high-angle chipbreaker set very close

Finally I went back to my standard setup with the chipbreaker about 1/32″ of an inch from the iron’s tip.  This made the hand-plane a lot easier to push and spit out the usual smooth shavings.  Since I was planing fairly tame wood, the same surface was left behind.

Smooth shavings from a standard 45 degree angle-of-attack

Smooth shavings from a standard 45 degree angle-of-attack

So, the upshot to me is that this technique gives exactly the same results as approaching the wood with a higher angle-of-attack than the typical 45 degrees (via a high-angle frog, back-bevel blade, bevel-up, whatever).  It makes the hand-plane harder to push, but tears-out grain much less – leaving a great surface especially on hard-to-plane woods.  Give it a shot, it’s pretty fun and easy to try.

Nov 012012
 

I’m ready to final-size the legs which means using the template I created awhile ago.  I first traced the curve onto both sides of the workpiece.  Then over to the bandsaw to remove the waste.

I use the bandsaw to cut within 1/16" of the curve line.

I use the bandsaw to cut within 1/16" of the curve line.

I try to cut about 1/16″ outside the lines so that there’s not too much material to remove with the router.

The template is just shy of the workpiece below.

The template is just shy of the workpiece below.

I clamped the template on top of the workpiece (and my bench).  I used a 1″ pattern router bit (similar to this one) to ride against the template.

A pattern router bit rides on the template to flush up the workpiece.

A pattern router bit rides on the template to flush up the workpiece.

Since my leg is almost 2″ thick, the 1″ bit didn’t reach all the way across.  Unfortunately I didn’t take a photo, but I flipped the workpiece over and finished it off with a flush trim bit that rode against the already-routed section.

Some sanding and scraping quickly blends across the two routed sections.

Oct 302012
 

I need to add a tenon to each end of the curved stretcher. I use my full-scale drawing to find the tenon locations.

The tenon is defined from the full-scale drawing.

The tenon is defined from the full-scale drawing.

After marking with a knife, I use a chisel to define a small v-groove to help guide the saw.

After scribing, I use a chisel to make a V-groove

After scribing, I use a chisel to make a V-groove

I used my Bad Axe Toolworks Tenon Saw to define the tenon shoulder.

I define the tenon shoulders with a Bad Axe Tenon Saw.

I define the tenon shoulders with a Bad Axe Tenon Saw.

Since this is a 6′ long piece, I brought a tool to the wood in order to quickly remove the cheek waste. The Festool TS55 was fast.

The Festool TS55 quickly remove tenon cheek material.

The Festool TS55 quickly remove tenon cheek material.

Finally, used my router plane to clean up the cheeks.

Veritas Router Plane cleans up tenon cheeks beautifully.

Router plane cleans up tenon cheeks beautifully.

Oct 252012
 

Now that the stretcher is flat, I decided upon the final curve using the grain.  I found that bending a thin piece of wood around four nails did the trick.

A flexible piece of wood bent around four nails defines the curve.

A flexible piece of wood bent around four nails defines the curve.

Here you can see the curve following the grain.

The curve follows the grain

The curve follows the grain

Back to the bandsaw to remove the waste.

The bandsaw quickly removes the waste beyond the traced curves.

The bandsaw quickly removes the waste beyond the traced curves.

The convex section I could clean up with a hand plane, providing a really nice smooth edge.

A Lie-Nielsen #7 cleans up the convex surface.

A Lie-Nielsen #7 cleans up the convex surface.

Unfortunately I don’t have a compass plane for the concave side.  I went with a flexible sanding strip.  I’ve used rasps and spokeshaves in the past as well.

A flexible sanding strip cleans up the concave surface.

A flexible sanding strip cleans up the concave surface.

Oct 232012
 

Seems like this project is all about flattening!  Well, when you have pieces larger than your machinery, it’s what happens.  I made a quick video about this part of the project.

This stretcher has some serious twist to it: the winding sticks tell the story.

Winding sticks tell the story of a twisted board

Winding sticks tell the story of a twisted board

Back to the usual suspects.

Lie-Nielsen #7 does a lot of flattening work

Lie-Nielsen #7 does a lot of flattening work